Very brief update. We are safe at the Korum’s house. Tomorrow morning we head up north. More details then.

Laura VanHuis: Ah! The sights and the smells and the signs of Africa! Immediately upon descending the rickety stairway onto the steaming black tarmac, I experienced a strong sense of deja vu. This was the first time I have been back to Africa since I was pregnant with Emily in 1998. This time that little “wombster” was walking two steps behind me – this time as a 17 yr old American teenager, completely unaware of the adventure that lie ahead.

The Accra airport has been updated and is more modern and efficient, full of those friendly faces and smiles that are so characteristically Ghanaian. After passing our Ebola screening, and answering only a few brief questions for customs officers, we sailed through without any problems. Emily and I breathed a sigh of relief when we finally saw our 4th suitcase swing around on the conveyor belt. All of our gear and Bible+ units had arrived, and less than one hour later we were outside and soaking in early morning 90 degree heat! Crowing roosters, mangy dogs, scrawny goats, and stray cats lined the streets as our missionary friend drove us in his Land Rover, dodging countless street vendors who were hawking their Kleenex boxes, lotto tickets, Mint gum, bagged water, and mangos balanced carefully on womens’ heads. Most sobering was the man crawling around in the dirt on all fours, literally gorilla-like, begging for any scrap or morsel someone would toss his way. Poverty never ceases to break my heart.

Even though we’d been awake for most of the past 24 hours, we knew naps were not an option to beat the jet lag, so our friends’ driver, Christian, took us out for the day to experience the sights and sounds of the city. First stop – the shopping mall! Recently built, this new plaza contained a Payless shoe store, a Mac store look-alike (all employees wearing bright orange shirts), a dept store that rivals Wal-mart, and a fabric store cranking Whitney Houston, then “My Redeemer Lives” sung by lively Ghanaian musicians!

After that, I decided to attempt to ask Christian to trek over to Tema, Ghana’s port city where our home and former ministry were headquartered. A lot has changed in 17 years, and I had no real confidence that I could find the house, but we had the time and the driver, so why not?! We spent the next two hours bumping along, driving up and down every passable road, stopping to ask any Ghanaian selling wares roadside if they knew where the 3 story white house was in Community 3. Other than living next door to a famous national soccer player, that’s about all I could remember. Of course everyone we asked confidently smiled and pointed in an opposite direction, and were guided to several national soccer player homes, but eventually, we pulled up in front of a familiar gate. We found it! The security guard told us that our former landlord still owns the house but it is vacant, waiting for another missionary family to come. Maybe you? :-)

As we drove around the corner, I recognized a small roadside shop where we used to buy bread. “Please stop!” I asked Christian. We pulled over, and I peered inside – lo and behold – Sarah!! She recognized the white girl from Chicago immediately. What a fun reunion! Sarah has probably sat in this tiny, 10×10 store selling toiletries, fresh vegetables, and bread every day for 20-30 years. Sarah was the key to finding another special friend, my former next door neighbor. After a few cell phone calls, we met “Mother” in Community 7 at a roadside junction. Ghanaians seem to have an endless supply of time – always available and ready to meet you…provided you have the time to wait. Another great reunion with big hugs, laughs, and a brief time of catching up, but eventually, we had to move on and head back home. A quiet drive among the newly paved Motorway (toll was 1 cedi = 25 cents), parallel to the Atlantic Ocean, made for a nice time of reflection on all we had seen in only our first day. Emily was a real trooper, graciously listening to Mom recall people, places, and things. She is enjoying the African experience, for sure.

Pete and Beth arrived later that evening, so the team and all its luggage has officially arrived safe and sound! A little repacking, a little visiting, a somewhat warm shower, and an air conditioned bedroom rounded out the day. We slept well. Tomorrow we head north on one more (in-country) flight aboard Africa World Airlines for recording and ministry in the remote villages. Let the adventure begin! We are excited and ready.

Today was fantastic. Yes, the temperature was 106, and the humidity 70%, but the antidote to heat is being sweaty, so we drink water all day and sneak into the shade at every opportunity.

Since our Internet connection seems stable at this instant (6:00am), I’ve uploaded a bunch of pictures, and we will just tell today’s story in pictures.

Ray and Laura had a joyful reunion at the Tamale airport. Our flight from Accra was uneventful, which is just the way we like to fly in Africa. Our shouts and giggles had all the baggage handlers and security guards looking on with smirks and smiles from their shady corners of the parking lot.

The next stop, the market. A line of cement block stores sold packaged items and housewares like rice makers and fans. We bought some bottled water, crackers, and of course some Fan Ice (more on that later). The produce section was not in the store, but outside. Dozens of small tables from competing vendors sold mangos, coconuts, bananas, cloths, mobile phone credits, and much more.

After stocking up, we started the drive to Walewale, about 1.5hrs on a real road. The cement buildings gave way to farmer’s fields and finally the red dirt, short trees, and grasses of the wide open savannah.

In this area in Ghana, homes are often mud huts with thatched roofs. Some families can afford a steel roof, but thatched huts remain cooler, so often a small family compound will have a mix of both.

In Walewale, our first stop was Pastor Joseph’s house. We relaxed in the shade discussing tomorrow’s plans after a bit of formal welcome. In this area of Ghana, it is still common, especially when visiting a family’s compound to do so formally. After standing introductions and hand shakes, we sat down. Folks understood at that point, we were to get quiet, and just sit a few moments in the shade, waiting for the Patriarch to formally welcome us. Joseph extended his appreciation for our visit. Ray then responded with “Thank you, we come in peace”. Ray then spent some time introducing each of us more completely. The floor was then open for discussion.

After some relaxing conversation, we drove out of town to visit a local village chief. Visiting a chief is extremely formal, and done respectfully. Step one when approaching the chief’s shady perch was to announce oneself. We hung back as Pastor Joseph approached and asked permission to visit. The locals removed their sandals as the entered the chief’s shelter. There were some whispers, and then we were allowed to enter, leaving our shoes on.

The chief looked calm, and did not readily make eye contact with people. He looked at people and nodded. A mat was laid out before the chief and a small older man went to sit at the feet of the chief. He was the translator or linguist, and if we had been speaking anything other than English, he may have offered clarifications or interpretations for things the chief didn’t catch. However, in this case, Pastor Joseph did the translating. We took turns, doing the welcomes. The chief thanked us for our visit. Ray was introduced, and then he did his part thanking the chief for letting us visit, and his hospitality. I then did my part, and thanked them for their kindness.

Pastor Joseph explained our plans for tomorrow… we would attend a local church and then record four area church choirs as well as people’s stories of how they became Christians, and their new lives. We are in Mamprusi territory, and for the next couple of days we will be recording as our friends sing and share in the Mampruli language.

After respectfully thanking the chief for his support and kindness, we drove the dusty roads back to walewale and relaxed near the church, meeting some of the kids. White people are still pretty rare up here, and it took some time for the smaller kids to get comfortable around us. Ok, maybe that’s an understatement :-) Some of the very small kids were clearly afraid. But after some smiles and goofiness, they came around.

Eventually a group of boys realized we were not all that interesting, and decided to find a shady spot to play “Countess Ball”, a miniature soccer-like game of bottle caps for men, a ball bearing for a ball, and black pieces of plastic to flip men toward the ball. Emily VanHuis and I watched.

The game is difficult, and after about 15 minutes, one of the boys finally sends the ball bearing through the battery goal posts. For effect, I do the spanish “Goooooooooooaaaaaaalllll” to their their delight.

In the late afternoon sun we just relax, talk about tomorrow’s plans, and take pictures of the kids. Sunday will be fantastic!

Beth Beckman: I love African churches! They know how to worship God with loud voices and lots of dancing…just awesome! We attended Pastor Joseph’s church in Walewale (pronounced wah-lay-wah-lay) this morning. After an hour of sweaty and colorful singing and dancing, Ray greeted the church, Pete introduced the team, Emily and I taught them a new song with only 5 simple words, and Mama Laura taught from Philippians 2. They excused us from church a little early (after 2 hours) so we could setup for the recording of choirs in the afternoon :-)

After setting up our ‘recording studio’ (Pete’s laptop with Paul’s borrowed microphone attached to a tripod), the choirs filed in…colorful clothing, timid smiles and excitement to share their songs with their neighbors. Once again loud voices filled the air with rhythmic steps and sometimes local instruments. Laura and Emily were at work taking lots of video and pictures while Beth worked with Joshua to log the choir names, villages and song titles. Maybe Emily will teach one of the songs to the kid’s choir when we return.

Example of Audio

Another highlight of the day was that the chief from Wuluru that we met yesterday came to share how be became a Christian. He also sang a Mampruli version of the old song ‘By and By’ as part of his story. We can’t wait to hear Joshua’s translation of the songs and the chief’s story.

In the middle of the day a local group of drummers and dancers came to perform at the church. With their legs adorned with bits of scrap metal, the dancers stomped to the frantic beat of the drums. The whole room bobbed, twirled, and circled the room to the throbbing, deafening beat of the drums while a choir sang. The celebration was so loud we are not sure the microphone could handle it. An African celebration.

By about 6:00pm we were wrapping up, and the kids were enjoying the cooler weather. A few very timid sprinkles of rain reminded us that the rainy season will begin soon.

Back at the guest house, we enjoyed a pasta dinner made outside under the stars on one of Pete’s camping stoves before showering off many layers of sweat from another 105 degree day!

Thank you, Lord, for sharing these beautiful people with us today!

This time, pictures first:

I know, too many pictures, but the sights and faces of Ghana are too wonderful not to share.

The guest house where we are staying is actually a bed and breakfast. Clement, the owner provided us with hard boiled eggs, toast, and a large green thermos filled with hot water. We added our granola, dry milk, and instant coffee. It was a fine way to start the morning.

By 9:00 we had packed up the “tech suitcase”, an old black Samsonite hard shell suitcase that held the camera gear, tripods, and hard drives, batteries, microphones, and a rats nest of cables. Our recording studio, Pastor Joseph’s church, was only four of five speed bumps and a dozen potholes away from the guest house.

The extreme daytime heat of being so close to the equator shifts daily life. Ghana wakes up early. By 5:30, when I get up to prepare the tech, I can hear the sounds of the village – roosters, people sweeping, and pots and pans. By 9:00, the village is buzzing with motor bikes, overloaded trucks leaning to the side as if they will topple and spill at any moment, workers carrying building supplies, women gracefully walking in single file along the paths balancing large basins stacked with supplies on their heads. It’s not possible to carry such loads on your head while slouching, and the hardworking women of Ghana maintain their elegant posture throughout the day.

Every time we emerge from Ray’s truck carrying our suitcase and backpacks, the Ghanaians rush to our aid, eagerly unloading the truck and carrying our gear. Yesterday, the neighborhood kids started the day unsure of the tall white foreigners with stringy straight hair from another world. Today, they raced to meet us, broad white smiles gleaming. While we waited for the speakers we would later record, I played goofy games with the kids, juggled, and soaked in the joyful sounds of giggling and laughing.

At midday, the crowd of kids peering in from the doorways is finally rewarded for their patience. Laura and Emily take some of the sports equipment friends back home donated and line up the kids. Laughing, yelling, cheering, and confusion is joined with running, twirling and balancing as Laura and Emily set up relay races and team games. The sun and heat pound down on us, yet everyone wants to join in. Sweaty hot kids dusted with red dirt compete fiercely, and while the kids could probably keep playing for several more hours, Laura and Emily finally take a water and shade break, and steady themselves back inside to catch their breath.

The last recording of the day was a team from the local health facility. We recorded them providing information on community health topics, including malaria, malnutrition, clean water, breast cancer, ebola, cholera, HIV, dental health, and conjunctivitis. We recorded about 15 different topics for the community health portion of the audio we will produce. Life in a mud hut without running water or sanitation can be harsh. Malaria is an ongoing problem. Yet joy, hospitality, and kindness abound in this small church family. We are thankful that we can be here and support the local pastors working in this community.